Where in Devon? - Feb 2011

A reminder of the Westcountry Studies Library's ongoing Where in Devon? project to identify persons and places in archival photos:

This year the Westcountry Studies Library has dug deep into its holdings again, and produced a new and exciting display of twenty-nine historic mystery pictures from the Library's collections. All the pictures feature something that we hope will help you identify the location - a bridge, a distinctive church, houses - or a mill!
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Between January 31st and February 14th the pictures will be on display in the foyer at Exeter Central Library.

The new pictures are also online at a Flickr virtual exhibition; and previous photos in the series are archived at www.flickr.com/photos/whereindevon.

See the Local Studies Where in Devon? page for contact details.

- RG
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The Misses Skinner's House of Rest

From the Western Morning News, an interesting article about Ferny Bank, a late 19th century holiday home on Babbacombe Downs run for working women by Emily and Edith Skinner.

Holiday retreat offered women a break from urban life – and men (Peter Carroll, WMN, Nov 13th 2010) tells of

... Emily and Edith Skinner – often referred to as the misses Skinner, who had the inspiration to open an enterprising and unusual holiday home for working women on the downs at Babbacombe.
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By giving women the opportunity to breathe in the proclaimed healthy air of Torbay and a jolly good holiday break at reasonable cost, their reputation grew through mentions in newspapers, magazines articles and advertisements directed to women nationwide.

And they called their residence Ferny Bank, described as 'A house of rest for women in business' ranging from shop-girls, dressmakers, milliners, employees in business houses, post and telegraph clerks etc.

There are several contemporary reviews, including this one from The Argosy:

WHERE SHALL I SPEND MY HOLIDAYS ?

THE above question is most important to any woman who has to maintain herself by her own exertions ; so many things must be considered. Expense is a great object to a working woman, and as a holiday is necessary to health, it is needful to be careful in selecting a health-giving air; and as solitude is not good for either health or spirits, she has also to look for congenial companionship.

Now let me tell you of a sea-side home which combines all these necessaries: where I spent a most delightful holiday last year, and where I am enjoying myself equally this year.

A friend who had passed a fortnight there told me of " The House of Rest for Women in Business," at Babbicombe, South Devon. She gave so glowing an account of it, and I had longed, so vainly, all my life to see Devonshire, that I wrote, as directed, to Miss Skinner. I received a most kind reply promising me a welcome; and early one morning started from a dull Northern town upon my long journey to the sunny South.

According to instructions I alighted at Torre Station. There I found some small omnibuses, and one of them conveyed me and my luggage to Babbicombe An up-hill ride of half-anhour brought me to my destination. The omnibus stopped at a pretty, semi-detached villa of moderate size, standing back from the road, a short carriage drive leading to the entrance With rather a quaking heart I approached the door, wondering whom or what I should meet first. In the vestibule a lady, who was, I found, the matron, greeted me very cordially —a great relief to a tired traveller—and by her I was taken upstairs to a room, in which were two beds, white dimity curtains dividing the chamber in half, so that each occupant was quite in private . Each part was provided with an ottoman, one chair, a wash-hand-stand, with a looking-glass and towel rail above and a cupboard beneath.

Here I left my belongings, and went down the broad staircase to the dining-room, where I had some supper and chatted for a few minutes with the matron. Ever since I came into the house I had heard merry voices and laughter proceeding from the room opposite the dining room : the occupants were evidently enjoying some good game . The dining-room was long and large, furnished with a couch, two long tables placed T fashion, and comfortable chairs; the walls were delicately coloured in shades of green. From the two windows I often afterwards caught delightful glimpses of the sea. As I was fatigued, the matron excused me from joining the household that night; and so I took my lamp and was very glad to go to rest .

The next morning at 7.30 a bell rang for dressing, and at 7.55 a second summons brought the " visitors " (as the inmates are called) from every room. I followed the stream into the drawing-room, where prayers were read by the matron. These were very appropriate, some being specially composed for the house. A little book containing the short service was handed to each person present . After prayers I had leisure to examine the room, and was charmed with its home-like comfort and graceful elegance. The ladies who founded and furnished this delightful home did not stop at comfort and necessaries. The eye rests with pleasure upon the delicatelytinted ceiling and walls, the latter hung with choice pictures, a gift from Bishop Fraser, of Manchester; the floor was carpeted with warm crimson floor cloth, easy-chairs were scattered about, and three inviting couches. The two long windows, which open upon a terrace, and overlook a pretty garden and lawn, held a stand of ferns in one, a low seat in the other. Flowers in pretty vases stood about on the large writing-table and upon the mantelpieces at either end of the long double room ; a large book-case, well stocked with interesting books, filled a recess, and was free to all. This completes, imperfectly, my first impression, and a closer acquaintance with its numerous comforts only increased my admiration. A piano has now been added, which is a great acquisition.

So much for the room; now for the occupants. These were women, twenty perhaps, varying in age from seventeen to sixty, as far as I could judge. Some looked ill, and had evidently availed themselves of a pleasant home and beautiful air to recruit exhausted energies. Most of these, I am glad to say, seemed quite restored before they said "good-bye." The rest all appeared very happy and full of enjoyment; they greeted me kindly, and assured me I should soon feel at home, as in truth I did. At breakfast, merry talk abounded, and as I was a stranger I had time to survey my neighbours. The breakfast-service was very pretty, of delicate blue and white; I afterwards heard it was a present to the house. After a substantial meal, the rest adjourned, whilst I remained with the matron, who entered my name and address, occupation,, and religion, and I then made my first week's payment. When this was done, as I found the others engaged in making their beds, I followed their example, and also arranged my things in the spaces allotted to them. It was a wet morning, and as out-door exercise was impossible, I started on a tour of inspection, and found that, on the same floor with my own bed-room, were four others, named respectively, from the colours of the walls, the Pink, Blue, Green, and Peacock rooms, and a tiny one over the entrance called the Nest . With the exception of this last and my own (the Peacock), they were all very large, each being divided by white curtains into three or four separate compartments, furnished like my own.

After dinner the rain ceased, and I accompanied four of the other visitors in a walk, and saw a little of the beauty of Devonshire. I feel that I am not capable of describing its wonderful scenery: but the remembrance of it is a perpetual delight, and I often pass a pleasant hour in looking over the photographic views I brought home, and in recalling my visits to each lovely spot .

The House of Rest stands at the end of Babbicombe Downs. A long zigzag path, which takes quite a quarter of an hour to descend, leads to Oddicombe Beach, from which, and also from Babbicombe Beach, parties of " visitors " embark for rowing. Here also are bathing machines, which, on fine days, are in great request. Another recreation is found in driving to the neighbouring places of interest, which seem endless.

Amongst so many fellow-visitors it could hardly be expected that all would be companionable, but I was agreeably surprised to find that all were friendly : everyone seemed eager to make new-comers happy and at home.

The ladies who originated the idea of establishing this home (the Misses Skinner) reside quite near, take great interest in the welfare of each inmate, and visit the house daily. Miss Skinner has written a little pamphlet, which gives a far better description than I can attempt, and can be obtained on application to the matron.

The House has been open for four or five years only, and twice during that time larger premises have been needed and taken. Even now bed-rooms have to be hired in the village. Twenty-eight inmates can be accommodated in the House. The work and trouble to these ladies is very great; answering the letters alone must be irksome. They conduct all the correspondence themselves, which not only saves the expense of a secretary, but also makes them feel better acquainted with each visitor by personal correspondence.

Visitors are received at 1s. a-week without, or 5s. a-week with, a subscriber's ticket. Subscribers of £1 yearly are entitled to one ticket to give to any woman who cannot afford to pay the 1s. Any person wishing to subscribe to this excellent work can do so, or can send donations of money, books, furniture, or indeed anything likely to be useful where so much is needed.

Every communication should be sent to Miss Skinner, at her private address, Bayfield, Babbicombe, South Devon.

The food supplied to visitors is plain, but good in quality and unlimited in quantity; milk is given with supper, no ale or other alcoholic drinks being permitted. In the evening games of various kinds are in vogue ; charades, draughts, proverbs, &c, &c.; thus not one minute in the day is dull; my only complaint was that the days were too short and too few.

If only this rambling attempt at description makes known to some of my fellow-women—especially those from the north, where it is not so well-known as in London—this well-named " House of Rest," I shall feel that I have done something to show my appreciation of the pleasure and benefit I derived from my visits, and of the kindness of the ladies who labour so devotedly for their poorer sisters.

One great advantage is that this is equally suitable as a winter and summer resort .

I have omitted to say that the visitors are composed chiefly of teachers of elementary schools, post-office clerks, and girls employed in shops, warehouses, &c. The visit is not limited to a special period; but, upon application for admission, intending visitors are requested to state, if possible, the length of time they wish to remain, in order to prevent disappointment. The beds are often bespoken weeks in advance, and as one visitor leaves in the morning, another fills her place at night. Some visitors remain only a week, others a fortnight, many a month; and some have stayed the entire winter, and then left reluctantly.

The railway fare from London or Bristol to Torre is reduced to one half by application to the Rev. John Hewett, vicar of Babbicombe ; and the return ticket is available for one month : this considerably lessens the expenses of the journey.

- From The Argosy, Vol 36, 1883
The Argosy review is somewhat anodyne, and it's worth reading the novelist Dinah Craik's account of her visit, originally published in Murray's Magazine in 1887, and reprinted as the chapter A House of Rest in her collection Concerning Men and Other Papers.

Miss Craik explores the workings in some detail: the variable-fee part-charitable system (no guest was told how much others paid); the tight class bracket of guests (no governesses or domestic servants); and the subtle but firm eye the "Committee" (the Misses Skinner and "Miss Roberts of Torquay" - the novelist Margaret Roberts) kept on conduct. A very enlightened aspect of the House of Rest is that despite the Misses Skinner being Christian, religious observance was optional, and proselytizing was banned.  Dinah Craik, a campaigner for social justice for women, gives some harrowing case studies of the working lives of residents she met - "We all of us have something more or less wrong with our lungs," one told her - and doesn't shy away from one of the major concerns of the House of Rest being to help steer women away from "falling".

The Skinners are mentioned in Todd Gray's 2009 Remarkable Women of Devon. The premises itself, which went through various incarnations as Ferny Hollow, Ferny Bank, and the Ferny Hollow House of Rest, is still standing, and easily findable by Google Street View.


View Larger Map

- RG
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Peter Orlando Hutchinson: "Victorian 'blogger"

The Western Morning News for 14th January 2011 had an interesting article introducing "In The footsteps Of Peter Orlando Hutchinson", a cultural and landscape project based around the work of a Sidmouth diarist.

As described in the WMN - On the trail of a Victorian 'blogger' - Peter Orlando Hutchinson was a polymath: a talented flautist, stone-carver and artist with interests in politics, archaeology and geology.


But while all of this is eminently admirable, it is his work in the field of recording aspects of the local landscape that is receiving modern-day acclaim.


The East Devon Area Of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) Partnership is leading a project to promote the region using Hutchinson's work as its base.


Project spokesman Phillippe Planel said: "He was a 19th century antiquary and well known character who spent his time drawing and recording all aspects of the local landscape – I guess today he would be considered to be a Victorian blogger.


"His geological and archaeological researches are of immense value, but above all, it is as an artist and ceaseless and devoted recorder of everything he heard and saw that he will be remembered, making his diaries an immensely valuable source of historical Devon literature. His wonderful paintings and sketches of East Devon deserve to be much better known.

See In the Footsteps of Peter Orlando Hutchinson - A Cultural and Historical Landscape Project 2010 - 2013 for further information about the project, which is supported by Heritage Lottery Fund grant as well as East Devon District Council, Devon County Council, Natural England, and the Sid Vale Association:

The Project aims to raise awareness of landscape change, help conserve and enhance historical features and continue the legacy of volunteer study and involvement in landscape heritage that has grown through the AONB Partnership. Drawing on the work of Peter Orlando Hutchinson, it will provide a detailed and fascinating account of the Victorian landscape. In doing so, we hope to create further cultural dimension around which to promote and interpret sites and locations within and about this nationally important landscape.

Focussing largely in and around the Sid Valley, the project will seek to revisit many of the historical features of the landscape that Hutchinson recorded, such as hill forts, tumuli, orchards and quarrying sites with a view to their conservation, enhancement, interpretation and public engagement therein.

A Sidmouth Herald piece for 28th November 2010, Sidmouth antiquary’s diaries explored, gives a glimpse of Hutchinson himself,

Addendum: see also Peter Orlando Hutchinson Online. - RG
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1885: Dawlish "death trap"

A look in news archives finds how a fatal accident in the 1880s shaped the present-day scenery at Dawlish.

Cliff falls are ubiquitous on the Jurassic and Triassic coast: I've previously mentioned the collapse of the Ladram Arch, the recent Pennington Point slip at Sidmouth, the formation of the Hooken Undercliff and, at JSBlog, the famous Bindon landslip between Axmouth and Lyme. They rarely, however, cause loss of life, but a tragic exception was the collapse in Dawlish I just encountered in a regional guidebook.

Lea Mount owes its formal, straight-cut outline to the anxieties that followed the falling of a portion of the cliff on August 29th, 1885, when over fifty tons of rock buried a party of seven women and children, killing three of them. To prevent further accidents, all overhanging portions were cut away.

- The South Devon Coast, Charles G. Harper, 1907

In 1885, the safe promenade that runs south from Boat Cove along the foot of Lea Mount to Coryton's Cove hadn't been built. Between the cliff and Cowhole Rock (i.e. from what is now Boat Cove, the site of the cafe, slipway and toilets here) was a path that allowed high-water access to Coryton's Cove, then designated "the gentlemen's bathing cove", via two pedestrian tunnels and a footbridge leading to a path that ran under the cliff base to the cove.  The Devon Libraries Local Studies Service has this image c.1860 showing the tunnels from the Dawlish side.

It was a highly popular venue: the Times (Sep 1st, 1885) reported that "On Sunday mornings as many as 700 men and boys are taken in a bathing train from Exeter ... they go to their bath through the narrow tunnel in Indian file".  However, it was also an accident waiting to happen - as the Birmingham Daily Post for September 2, 1885, called it, "a death-trap at the seaside" - as sea erosion at the foot of the cliff had produced a pronounced overhang on the Coryton side near the footbridge (the modern location is at the northern end of the line of beach huts).

On Saturday August 29th 1855 at around noon, six members of the family and household of Dowager Lady Sawle were preparing for a picnic lunch beneath the overhang, when a large mass of rock (estimated 50-150 tons) split from the cliff above them. They had a moment's warning from a seventh party member, Ellie Watson, who was standing nearer the sea and saw the start of the collapse. Three ran toward the cliff, and were buried and killed instantly: nine-year-old Violet Mary Watson; Mary Radford (lady's maid to Lady Sawle); and Elizabeth Keen (nurse to the Watson children). Three who ran toward the sea, a Miss Watts, Miss Matthews, and Johnny Watson, survived, but were seriously injured. Only Ellie Watson was unhurt.

The definite local newspaper account is probably "Shocking accident at Dawlish", Trewman's Exeter Flying Post, Wednesday, September 2, 1885. If you have access to the 19th Century British Library Newspapers archive, it's findable online, as is the The Illustrated Police News for Saturday, September 12, 1885, whose cover has a typically fanciful depiction of the incident, along with a drawing of the precarious state of the cliffs at the time.

The accident became a local, and even national, health and safety scandal when the background was revealed at the inquest. There had been previous minor rockfalls at the same location. Warning signs had been placed, but lost to decay or removed. The footbridge had been installed after the danger was known. There had been long-standing inaction over the cliff because it appeared not to be under the jurisdiction of the Dawlish Local Board, nor the Great Western Railway Company, nor the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. Further, the Reverend RHD Barham (see RHD Barham and Dawlish) revealed that he had written to the Local Board only a few weeks previously, warning them of the risk of such a fatal accident. Recording  a verdict of accidental death, the coroner added a rider calling on the Local Board to ascertain the ownership of the beach, and to put up warning signs pending further action.

The Times editorial for Sep 2nd, 1885, took the view that nobody's actions in the matter reflected well on them, commenting on the lethal combination of lack of responsibility of authorities, the recklessness of the English on holiday, and lack of interest of locals in the welfare of visitors. It concluded:

... even the seaside visitor, nay even the excursionist, even the bearers of bathing tickets to and fro for sixpence, have claims on the most fastidious, and certainly have a right to be duly warned of perils by tide and current, by cliff and by drain.

The aftermath of the accident had a long-term effect on the Dawlish scenery. In November 1885 (as reported in "The dangerous cliffs at Dawlish", Trewman's Exeter Flying Post, Wednesday, November 11, 1885) the Dawlish Local Board met to consider plans, subsquently implemented, to stabilise the cliffs and remodel the beachfront. This was to build a wall - now called Early's Wall - extending the breakwater round the foot of Lea Mount, to demolish the overhanging cliff portions, and to use the debris to fill the gap between wall and cliff foot to create the broad promenade we see today. The development also included the high-level scenic path above the promenade; the tunnelled spur of rock between Cowhole Rock and the cliff foot was also removed. I must take a look the next time I visit, but I think the sealed entrance of the second tunnel, on the Boat Cove side of Cowhole Rock, is just visible behind the old winch (see Flickr).

- RG
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Westcountry Studies Local History Day: 26th Feb

From the Westcountry Studies Newsletter No. 11: news of the Local History Day on Saturday 26th February at the Westcountry Studies Library on a theme of Crime and Punishment.

Crime and Punishment is the theme of this year's event, run by the Westcountry Studies in assocation with the Exeter Local History Society.. There will be a series of talks in the morning on executions and witch trials in Exeter, a mysterious murder at Branscombe, and Devon’s villains.

Each talk costs £1.00, or £3.00 for all four.

As well as the series of talks there will also be exhibitions on Crime and Punishment. Various local history organisations will be present on the day to answer questions on all aspects of local history. Also on display for the first time, taken from the Westcountry Studies Libraries Black Archive; a book bound in human skin. This book is The Poetical Works of John Milton, bound in part of the skin of George Cudmore who was convicted of the murder of his wife Grace Cudmore and hanged on March 25th 1830.

Programme

The event runs from 10.00am-3.30pm on Saturday 26th February.

10.30 am The Exeter Witchcraft Trials -- Frank Gent.
11.30 am Shooting at Branscombe Old Pit -- John Torrance and Barbara Farquharson. 12.30 pm Executions and the sites of the Gallows -- David Cornforth and Sue Jackson.
1.30 pm Devon Villains -- Mike Holgate.

Refreshments will be available all day.

Tickets are available from the Westcountry Studies Library or Exeter Central Library. For further information please contact westcountry.library@devon.gov.uk or call 01392 384216.
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House research workshop: 18th March

The Devon Rural Archive sent us news of a forthcoming workshop, Research Your House's History, on Friday 18th March 2011.

A DAY TO RESEARCH YOUR HOUSE'S HISTORY
LECTURES AND WORKSHOP at the DEVON RURAL ARCHIVE,
Shilstone, Modbury, PL21 0TW
Friday 18th March 2011 10 - 3.30

We hope you may be interested in attending this day to help you research the history, significance and development of your house whether it is in the countryside, a market town, the outskirts of a city or a village in Devon. Our specialist guest speakers who will deliver short talks in the morning and then in the afternoon session we can make use of our spacious archive room to further individual research using the knowledge on hand.

Please bring any photographs, documents or references which might help with this
and, if you like, a laptop as our building has WiFi. Please feel free to circulate this invitation to local history society colleagues or newsletters.

  • 10.00 Registration
  • 10.10 The process of how to research the history of your house by Josephine Brown
  • 10.50 Using maps, how to use resources in our archive and on the internet by Sarah Daligan
  • 11.30 Coffee
  • 11.50 Typology of domestic architecture and the significance of your house including dating by architectural features by Linda Watson
  • 12.30 Lunch
  • 1.45 Introduction to Archive and our research work by Diana Gower
  • 2.00 Workshop session with speakers from the morning acting as tutors.
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Josephine Brown is an Historic Environment Consultant specialising in the research and analysis of historic settlements, buildings and landscapes. As an architectural historian she uses archive research and on-site fabric analysis to understand the historic development and significance of historic structures. Based in Totnes, Josephine is particularly knowledgeable on the building styles and traditions
of the South West. Our day will commence with an introduction from Josephine on the
process of researching the history of a building. She will introduce the subject of source material and dating of architectural features, which will be covered in greater detail by following speakers. The session will include an overview of the wide variety of archives and online research sources available to the house historian.

Sarah Daligan is one of the consultant archaeologists working at the Devon Rural Archive (DRA) undertaking site visits relating to domestic architecture post 1300 in rural Devon. She worked for 8 years in the archaeology department at the University of Wales in Lampeter, latterly specializing in cultural heritage management. In addition to her work at the DRA Sarah also conducts classes in
anthropology and archaeology at several places in South Devon.

Linda Watson is a conservation architect who is currently Associate Professor and the Programme Manager for the two year MA course in Architectural Conservation at the University of Plymouth. She is particularly interested in Cob buildings and recently gave a lecture here at the DRA on the subject.

Diana Gower has worked at the DRA for several years and is responsible for a large part of the cataloguing and displays in our building.

The cost for the event, run by the Fenwick Charitable Trust, is £15.00 including a Plougman's lunch with cake and fruit. Booking is essential; the DRA can perform preliminary map work if if you want to provide house name, postcode or grid references of the property you are researching.

For an application form or further details, contact Diana Gower at the Devon Rural Archive (01548 830888 / info@dra.uk.net / http://www.devonruralarchive.com/).
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